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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 23
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On training - Distance work
Distance work, seems a lot of SD handlers don't like this concept. Certainly it is not mentioned in any PAT I've read and when I try to talk about I'm told point blank it's not necessary. I disagree. Distance work is just as important as anything else. More so in fact as it deals with dogs control over bolting and being recalled. Case in point. A disabled person sued over SD access when his alleged SD was refused entry. As part of the litigation the dog was tested by either dropping or removing it's lead.
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Originally Posted by Item #10 in the ADI PAT
OFF LEAD: Sometime during the test, where appropriate, the person will be instructed to drop the leash while moving so it is apparent to the dog. The individual must show the ability to maintain control of the dog and get the leash back in its appropriate position. this exercise will vary greatly depending on the person's disabilities. The main concern is that the dog be aware that the leash is dropped and that the person Is able to maintain control of the dog and get the leash back into proper position.
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There was a distraction when a cat appeared or was introduced (I don't remember which) and the dog took off after the cat not returning when called. It was picked up later by animal control. When I mentioned this to a group of SD trainers and instructors I was told that as a test of an SD it was unfair and that a dog cannot be expect to remain with a distraction present. WHAT?? ********!! If you drop your lead and the dogs wanders off, stays behind, bolts or doesn't come when called that's a fail. If I'm in a mobility chair and I drop the lead I don't need my dog bolting.
So what am I talking about in distance work (Can't say DW that stands for dear wife) It starts at the car with the dog(s) dismounting on command, not before, or when you remove the lead. Most people removing the lead give their dogs a happy lets go play statement that the dogs interpret as a release command and bolt for the park as soon as the lead is removed. They're just too excited to want to listen to you. In removing the leads from both Jin and Abby I don't say anything or maybe just a quiet wait command. Neither one moves until given the release command "That'll do" (that's traditional for sheepdogs). On exiting the car both take positions within a trained boundary distance (not more than 5-7 steps away) Jin lies down and Abby sits and waits at my feet both waiting for a release command even if there are other dogs to play with nearby. Neither wander off or bolt or seek their doggy friends.
In sheepdogs, Border collies (BCs), Aussies, Mudis and other herders the ability to control your dog from several hundred yards away is paramount as you can see here. http://www.youtube.comwatch?v=D2FX9rviEhw.
Distance work; it means to establish a solid recall, lie down, leave it and safety commands and to get control over distractions and bolting from a distance beyond where normal commands like come and sit don't work well. e.g. Call your dogs name and tell her sit. Generally she'll auto-come then sit. A distance sit is sit and stay where you are and do not move. It also means controlling movement of the dog from left to right to run out and vice versa only those are not needed here. Doesn't mean you can't teach it though. These commands should override everything. Additionally knowing dogs with few exceptions are not 100% there are several commands that can be used one of them will emerge over time as the #1 priority override command. Right now it's Lie Down for Jin and come for Abby. In a critical situation your dog knowing and reacting positively to these commands can be the difference.
Bolting includes wandering or running off, chasing: dogs, birds, rabbits, ducks, geese and running up to people, ignoring the handler, lagging behind and not responding to recall or safety commands. It means a dog out of control and that is unacceptable in my book. Some dogs when distracted take off after a rabbit or cat and no matter what you do they aren't going to listen. You see it all the time even with well trained dogs, Jin is a maniac for birds thus when he chases he is bolting. The answer to the problem is a solid recall and response to safety commands. I don't care what your dog is doing or how far away (say up to a 1/2 mile, some working dogs more than that) when called they should stop what they're doing and return. Lie Down is easier to teach than a solid recall. However it places the dog into a defenseless position so if your going to take control of a situation it has to be quickly. Jin at 13 months has an 80% recall. It's getting better, 6 months ago his recall was 50/50 from distances up to 200 yds and nothing beyond that. Today he recalls from out of sight; meaning he was a naughty dog wandering over to the wash to play. His lie down however is stellar. He drops like a rock when told by hand, whistle and voice and freezes.
Safety commands and positions are up to you. If you have mobility and can protect your dog center heel between your legs straddling the shoulders is best. In a mobile chair placement should be opposite of where the action is. Goto commands also work here but have to be well practiced. For both dogs I can send them to a doorway, inside, a car or crate up to about 50ft away. If the car or building door is open the dogs should enter without instruction or on command, your choice.
It's easy enough to teach your dogs distance work. Chasing balls, Frisbees and other objects out to a distance is the basis of it for many dogs. For working dogs like border collies and Aussies it's inherent and is much easier to teach. As long as it's a game you'll be successful. Issue your commands in a calm quiet voice or use a whistle of some sort if possible. Remember the point of teaching this is if all hell breaks loose your dog will return to you on command or seek safety on his own.
Hopefully my links will now be allowed.
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02-22-2010, 10:43 AM
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